Replacing Worn Brake/Steering Linings (click on first photo - use arrows)
Worn steering/brake bandsHopefully yours don't look like this pair! These exposed rivets can cause serious damage to the brake drums.
HG & OC-3 DIY InstructionsCaution: Cletrac to Oliver HG steel bands came in two different gauges, which in turn took linings of different thickness. Either pairing will work in your machine (thin+thin or thick+thick), but you should not mix and match.
3 Cyl. OC-4 DIY InstructionsPlanetary and clutch-steering Oliver OC-4 linings are slightly different lengths.
Let us know when ordering.
Please Wear Gloves + Mask!The tough fibrous lining material contains filaments of brass — both are a skin and lung irritant.
Removing Old RivetsUse a punch or a drill to remove the old rivets. Clean up any 'swarf' around the holes with a wire brush, file or grinder.
Steel Band and New LiningThe next job is to securely clamp the new lining to the inside of the steel band.
Clamping Lining to Band AFor late-style OC-4 bands, start at the looped end. For all other models start at either end.
Using clamps align the lining, almost butting it up to the three loop rivets.
Clamping Lining to Band BWorking towards the other end of the band add enough clamps to keep the lining tight to the band. Five clamps works best — four will do the job.
Clamping Lining to Band COn later OC-4's bands, the hooked end is inflexible and therefore more force is required to clamp the lining accurately. A C-clamp works well.
Drill Rivet HolesWith the new lining now secured, the steel band is your template for drilling the rivet holes from the outside.
Problem: OC-4 Brake StrutsLater-style OC-4 bands have a 'brake strut' held in place by two steel roll pins. You'll need to move the strut to access the final hole for drilling and riveting. Hacksawing through and removing one roll pin allows the strut to swing away just enough.
Countersinking ARemove the lining from the steel band. Using a drill stand (hand-held will work) and a brad-point bit (= 'dowelling' or 'lip & spur'), very carefully counter-sink each rivet hole.
Countersinking BLeave enough lining material for the rivet head to bind against.
I'm going to say 1/16" is too little and 1/8" is too much — but err on the side of caution!
Better that the new lining has a slightly shorter life than it become detached inside your differential housing!
Re-attach Lining to BandWith all the countersinks completed, re-attach the lining using the clamps in the same way you did earlier, aligning the holes in the lining with those in the steel band.
Insert Rivets AInsert the Brass Rivets through each hole. This can be a surprisingly fiddly job — it helps if you have cleaned out the holes again after counter-sinking.
It's impossible to do with gloves!
Insert Rivets BUse a punch or suitable tool to press the rivets firmly into the holes. Your riveter will do the same, but doing it now will identify any hole problems — for example, if the rivet hole is not centred within the countersink, the rivet may not bind well.
Insert Rivets C1Cletrac/Oliver HG steel bands vary in gauge, and OC-4 bands are heavier in gauge than all others, so the rivets may emerge more or less than shown in these two photos.
Inserting Rivets C2Cletrac/Oliver HG steel bands vary in gauge, and OC-4 bands are heavier in gauge than all others, so the rivets may emerge more or less than shown in these two photos.
RivetingThere are a number of tool options to close the rivets — from specialised brake/clutch tools to hand-riveters (like pliers), leather punches etc.
If this is your first time, you may need to experiment with what is available. If ordering the linings from us, ask for extra rivets.
Finally...Gently, hammer down any raised edges — a small brass or leather mallet is best. Then remove any brass 'swarf' with a wire brush — and you are good to go!
We supply cut-to-length lining kits for all models, including rivets (+ roll pins where applicable).